Replacement Boat - attempt 4

A highly seaworthy boat, for coastal sailing in Southern Australia, yet light enough to be brought up the high tide mark on a beach single handed and has some shelter from the elements for the occupant

A sailing outrigger canoe, with a single outrigger using water ballast and two wheels


  • LOA = 18.5ft
  • Boat can be disassenbled quickly via use of lashings
  • Outrigger can be removed quickly via undoing lashings to reduce weight
  • Distance between Main Hull and outrigger centerlines = 7.5ft
  • Kickup rudder - will not break on grounding

  • Kickup centerboard - will not break on grounding
  • Outrigger can use up to 30kg of water ballast to increase righting moment
  • Outrigger is light enough to be righted single handed if boat tips in deep water
  • Safety ama provides a base for the stay, also provides protection against tipping
  • Wheels fold back when not in use, assist greatly in getting boat up the beach

  • Midsection freeboard of main hull = 41cm at 250kg laden
  • Width of main hull at chine = 56cm - just wide enough to lie down in
  • Main hull maximum width = 77cm
  • Outrigger (ama) is 15ft long and lightly built to assist manhandling it about and to assist in righting boat if tipped
  • Rig is bermudan with combined area of 100 square feet - I have the mast, boom and sails already

  • Boat dissassembles on the beach quiclky so that it can be brought up in parts
  • Assembly is pegs and holes secured via lashings, a superior method to nuts and bolts
  • Main hull waterline beam = 51cm at 250kg laden
  • Main hull fineness ratio = 10.5:1


Looking back over a decade later, am still very very happy with this. Think this is a good sign that most things are right. Some changes I would make now, narrow the stern a little, say 4 inches narrower. I would use simple soft drink water bottles for ballast in the ama, as large water containers are going to break. I would reduce the flair above the chine a little, and lastly I would replace the complicated folding wheel setup with a simple axle and wheel. That would be a half inch steel axle, a pair of plastic wheels, and a little wood to reinforce the axle and to hold the boat in place. Note that this very very simple trolley setup needs a key to hold it into the boat,,, so that if the wheels hit a rock,, the boat does not travel forward whilst the trolley/axle stays put,, just imagine a small cheap piece of wood that sits into the board slot,,, or some similar setup that acheives the same result

Previous notes on this boat can be seen HERE and HERE


Please find below a series of offsets for each section. Generally I have spaced sections as 500mm increments. Obviously these are not full plans, however they may provide some assistance if possibly someone is keen on building this boat. Please note that I have reduced the freeboard by 1cm to make it a more general purpose boat. The boat is designed to carry stores, crew etc, thus freeboard may be more than is ideal for a simple dayboat. If you intend to sail alone in reasonably sheltered conditions reducing freeboard by another 15mm or so may well be warranted.

Please note that the hull is beamier than the ideal for a dayboat. I gave the boat extra beam so that I could have a snooze on it if required. Also note that I have shortened the boat a fraction to 5.5m. Please note that it is very easy for me to get offsets for anywhere in the boat. For example, say you decide to put in a webframe between section 2 and section 3, I can provide offsets easily, provided you tell me how far along it is (example 10cm aft of section 2)

Heights of sections above baseline

Please find below a list of how high the lowest point of each section (the keel) is above the baseline

Section 0 - 140mm
Section 1 - 113mm
Section 2 - 66mm
Section 3 - 35mm
Section 4 - 0mm
Section 5 - 0mm
Section 6 - 0mm
Section 7 - 0mm
Section 8 - 10mm
Section 9 - 61mm
Section 10 - 143mm
Section 11 - 239mm